A ROLL OF SLAVERING GOODNESS
The lumpia is a roll of slavering goodness – especially a freshly made one that just got rolled or one that just came out of the frying pan. It doesn’t really matter what is inside, whether it be meat, vegetables or fruits. What matters is the way it is cooked, and what condiments can be sprinkled on it or dipped it in with.
The Chinese tradesmen first introduced the lumpia to the Filipinos, along with pansit (noodles) and the siopao (steamed bread). But of course, us Filipinos were not content with just THAT, so we took the lumpia and recreated it into something our palates would appreciate more. There are now many varieties of lumpia, some of them have become indigenous to a specific locality, and most if not all of them have specific condiments to accompany the roll.
What is inside the lumpia depends solely on to the cook’s imagination. Basic spring rolls like lumpiang gulay, lumpiang shanghai, and lumpiang turon can become an extravagant affair once a new ingredient is substituted or a whole combination of filling is conceptualized. Of course, part of the conceptualization processes is thinking of what dipping can be added to the roll.
For fresh lumpiang gulay, use the yellow egg roll pastry. These soft, pliant pastries are not usually available in the market because of their low shelf life. But you can order this in any of the Chinese shops or other specialty stores that abound in the metropolis. And instead of using the same togue, or mongo sprouts, try using vermicelli noodles. Use the same recipes you are accustomed to but try the vermicelli or some other noodles at hand. Surprisingly, instant noodles work as well. Also, use canned tuna or salmon sprinkled lightly with salt and kalamansi juice instead of pork and oh-la-la, its heaven. This is a very vegetarian meal without really tasting like one, and less grease too since you don’t fry it.
For the first time lumpia makers, however, I would like to clarify that for fresh lumpia, the other vegetables are pre-cooked first, cooled before being rolled in the egg roll pastry. For its sauce, simply melt 2 tablespoons of brown sugar in 1 cup of water, boil, add cornstarch until it thickens, all soy sauce and crushed garlic to taste.
Now, what about the same old boring lumpiang shanghai? Instead of using the same ground meat, try a lot of vegetables and fruits instead. Mince the vegetables and fruits with the same consistency as that of the ground meat and add lots of minced onions. Carrots give it a nice sweet crunch, but be sure to drain it well, as carrots carry lots of fluid. Singkamas are great for this kind of roll too, as with apples, but also you must drain it well. Potatoes or sweet potatoes will also do. Vegetables like kintchay and kutchay will give your lumpia a spicy aroma. Mix them well with your usual seasoning and just the egg yolk, and roll very thinly on lumpia wrappers, (preferably the white ones). Serve with sweet and sour sauce or sweet chili sauce.
You can actually try the same recipe as the one above but instead of mincing everything, cut them into shoelace strips. This takes additional cooking time so put your fryer on low heat. Substitute strips of pre-boiled chicken for the ground meat and roll into thick lumpias. For dipping sauce, crush a whole head of garlic very finely, mince a whole head of onions, add one part soy sauce to three parts vinegar. Add sugar and pepper to taste. Hmmmm, drool city!
Now here is a brilliant idea for the makeover of the innocuous lumpiang turon or simply turon. Instead of lacing the turon with strips of langka or jackfruit, try strips of hard edam cheese. If you are using this recipe I suggest you use ripe saba bananas, instead of the half-ripe, firm ones. Instead of rolling the adding brown sugar (as part of the customary recipe), sprinkle confectionary sugar very lightly on top of the fried roll to give it a frosted look. But let the lumpia cool for a few minutes before sprinkling the sugar or else, the powdery sugar will disappear into the crisp skin of the turon. Or, if all this is still not so toothsome, you can dip the turon in condensed milk to give it a very cheesy flourish. Viola! Turon extraordinaire!
Enjoy your lumpia meals with a vengeance. Remember, the lumpia is a very versatile dish in itself. You can mix it up, dress it down and basically just go crazy with it. Don’t be too zealous with the marinade, supertasters. That is what our dinner table condiments are for.